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Southwest Trip
(January - February 2019)
I needed a break so I set my sights west to visit Mike. After nearly 5,500 miles, I had visited family and enjoyed some unusual sites!After stopping to visit some relatives for a few days, I rushed across the country. I made good time. It's easy to travel alone in a closed car: no lengthy rest stops and no wind buffeting!
The news had been making a lot of noise about the snow in the midwest, especially in St. Louis. I saw the most snow in eastern Indiana, about eight inches. Hmm!
In Missouri, I saw signs advertising "Uranus Fudge". I like space themes but don't care for toilet humor! The place looked empty when I passed.
Oklahoma is so boring. It hasn't the mesas of the proper southwest and isn't--well--Texas. And, what do we pay for on the Tulsa Turnpike? I saw no service stations, as along the New York State Thruway. I only saw police looking for speeders. Though, I did get a laugh when I entered the Kickapoo Reservation. I, too, would have some reservation about booting a poo!
Near the frontier with Texas, I saw two airliners orbiting with their gear down between Elk City and Canute. The strange thing is that there's no nearby airport shown on the map. A truck driver noticed it, too, and spoke up on the CB. No one responded with a reason.
There were mile and miles of wind turbines in the Texas Panhandle. Yes, ranchers in the symbol of "conservativism" (Texas) are reaping the benefits of tax rebates. The drive in New Mexico was beautiful, as always. Very few turbines, though. Would you know it, country music makes sense out there on the straight, desert roads? It's a good thing, too, because the few radio stations were either religious, NPR, or country.
I arrived in Phoenix. It was excellent to catch up with my brother. He had had quite a few changes in his life, but was doing well. He showed off his high-performance computer that runs Virtual Reality (VR) through a headset. We played a combat game about a diesel-electric submarine named "Iron Wolf". I was blown away by the realism of VR. Later, we played "Eye in the Sky". This cooperative puzzle game stirred both of our brains. We completed it and laughed at the ending!
Mike and I visited Wickenburg. I wanted to visit a certain mesquite tree that had served as jailer. "The Jail Tree" was utilized between 1863 and 1890. An artist has sculpted a captive rustler. The audio history, available when a button is pressed, was quite humorous and relates the story of an "detainee" who really needed a drink the next morning. Click to see the distraught crim!
One day two helicopters collided. You'd think that one would have been law enforcement. No, there were both news choppers. Well, the machines collided and all four occupants were killed. Would you know it, they erected a monument to these hotheads in Steele Indian School Park. The park is quite pleasant, though.
The beast has been improved. Can you spot the changes? Yes? Great!
I look forward to enjoying its abilities the next time Mike has vacation. Until then, this machine will encourage respect for off-roaders!
Mike had to work. So I drove around and enjoyed having my windows down in January! My first stop was the Arizona Falls. Maybe it wants to rival Niagara Falls? The entrance definitely holds promise!
Above is a shot of the cool turbine house, and no water flowing. Click for a panaromic shot of the entire site.
Needing the exercise, I decided to walk along the canal that normally feeds the Arizona Falls. The plaques claimed that White Amur live in the water. They were introduced to keep the algae and weeds from clogging the canal. Clever.
I found several living in the shallow water. Here's one!
Underneath the turbine house is a neat display. Obviously, it is normally seen through falling water. But how many times do you see "normal" shots on this site? Isn't that why you visit?
The stop was Papago Park. Pictured above is George Hunt's tomb. He was the first governor--and six terms after that!--of Arizona and commissioned a concrete pyramid built atop a hill overlooking Phoenix.
Today, the hill overlooks the zoo, with Sky Harbor International Airport (left) and downtown (right) in the background. Click for a larger view.
Here's a neat shot of the pyramid tomb. Click for a larger view.
Hole-In-the-Rock is near the tomb. It was very crowded so I took a photo and continued on. It was curious that there were so few people near the pyramid.
Across the road is the less crowded part of the park. There are a number of hiking trails. Arizona's idea of a hiking trail is what I call a road. It was funny when people commented that I was "hiking" in flip-flops. I would comment that their trails are very well groomed compared to what I'm used to seeing!
There's an amphitheater on the far side of the park. It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933 and restored by the Boy Scouts in 2010. It is not in use because the McDowell Road now passes right by it. Click here (1.1 MB) or here (4.6 MB) for a video. (The camera lens sure is dusty!)
I saw a Black Hawk helicopter fly overhead. Later, I discovered why because near the amphitheater was a cloth X. It reminded me of camping near the Chocolate Mountain Gunnery Range!
My own Hole-In-the-Rock with no one around!
Above is a parting shot of Papago Park. Can you make out the people? Click for a larger image
The next day I drove up the South Mountain. The road twisted quite a bit, and some of the people driving it went a bit too fast! There were a number of TV and radio antennae on top. The view impressive, too. Click here (2.1 MB) or here (4.1 MB) for a video.
I visited Dreamy Draw Park. Finally, some actual hiking! I visited this specific park because Douglas P. Avakian wrote in June 1997 that in this park stone was used to cover up a UFO bounce site in 1947. Yes, no visit to Phoenix would be complete without a UFO! Phoenix Forgotten? There was no plaque, of course!
Ernesto Miranda wasn't a good man. He was convicted of kidnapping and raping a woman. Though, some good did come of it. The
Picacho Peak State Park marks the site where an important pass exists between Tuscon and Phoenix. I visited because the second most western Civil War battle occurred here. Pictured above is the peak. I didn't have time to hike it, just take a crappy photo!
I did enjoy reading the plaques along the short Nature Trail. Also, I met an older couple from Minnesota. There were scouting a place to which to retire in Arizona.
Despite never being used in the Civil War, a Model 1841 portable cannon is on display near the Civil War Memorial. This artillery piece could be broken down into three parts and moved by mules into mountainous terrain. I also learned that Arizona Territory was divided between the North and South during the war by a horizontal line. The North used Prescott as the capital. The Confederates used Tuscon as the western capital of their territory, which, along with the area of present-day Phoenix, were part of the Confederate Territory.
The monument commemorates the Southern cavalrymen who hindered the progress of the California Column, a 2,500-strong force of volunteers. The Column had been dispatched from Fort Yuma, California to drive the Confederates back to Texas, thus making Arizona and New Mexico Union territory. The skirmish occurred at a remount station for the Butterfield Overland Stagecoach. This route was used by the Postal Service from 1857 until 1861. The Confederates had made it to Stanwix Station, which is near Fort Yuma. The territory was lost to the Union, effectively shutting off any hope of opening a port on the Pacific Ocean for the Confederacy. Remember that by this time the entire coast of the Confederacy was blockaded by the Union navy.
A friendly Park Ranger said that there used to be an impressive reenactment every year. It is now banned due to a dumb reason, no doubt slavery. Trying to ignore or erase history doesn't make it go away, remember Stalin.
On the way back west on I-10, I saw a model that looked like an Apollo rentry module. NASA left it in a farm field, too
Also, I saw cotton being grown along I-10. I thought that was a southern crop! Above the Gila Bend Reservation, five Black Hawk helicopters flew southeast.
Next stop was the Desert Foothills Scenic Drive. This section of Scottsdale Drive has signs for various trees and bushes as one drives along. Neat idea. There's also a small area that explains the flora and fauna in more detail. See what I mean: here!
The day before Groundhogs Day, I took the Valley Metro to downtown Phoenix. This light rail train was surprisingly comfortable and safe, and inexpensive at $4 for a day pass.
Along the way, I stopped to visit this unusual monument. It reminds me of a monument from Blake's 7.
The monument in Phoenix is made from four tons of metal from melted-down firearms "used in violent acts throughout Arizona". My concern is that, because of this monument, some may focus on the weapons and not on the criminal. But, it's still a good thing to have and see!
I walked the short distance along Central Avenue to the main drags (Washington and Jefferson Streets). On Washington is an exhibit on "Social Invertebrates". On the surface, it was cutsy. But when one looked more closely, at least one question should arise! See here and here.
After I passed the Science Center I realized that I had gone the wrong direction. I did see the church for Immaculado Corazon de Maria (Immaculate Heart of Mary), which is an impressive building.
I turned around a walked around Chase Field where the Diamondbacks baseball team plays. It's notable because it is the first field built with a retractable roof to protect the natural grass. Just south of Grant Street on 7th Street the side of a building has been decorated with street signs to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Arizona's admission into the Union in 1912, and recognition of Phoenix as the capital. Click for a detailed view of the photo.
I continued my walk, now with the capitol building as my destination. Outside of a museum I found bits from mining machinery. They are damned large! Click the thumbnails for a shot of a shovel bucklet and a tire from a mining truck.
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In Wesley Bolin Plaza there are many monuments. This park is just east of the Capitol. Above is a memorial to the Arizona Navajo code talkers who were instrumental during the War.
A deck gun from the USS Arizona, sunk at Pearl Harbor, continues the WWII theme.
The anchor and chain from the Arizona are also proudly shown. The memorial is a beautiful spot with water fountains and grass. As a reminder that the war ended, a gun from the USS Missouri, upon which the Japanese surrender was accepted, is on display. (It looks much the same as the one from USS Arizona.)
From the anchor, one may see the two guns, the flags of Arizona, the Capitol, and the rather ugly State Executive Office Tower. The striking blue pillars represent the nine minutes that it took for the USS Arizona to sink after being hit by Zeroes. There are other symbols in the memorial. Amazing.
There's a time capsule enclosed in concrete in December of 1976 nearby, too.
Shifting gears, Mike and visited The Superstition Mountain Lost Dutchman Museum. (Say that three times quickly whilst drinking!) They have a little museum about mining in the mountains east of Phoenix. But the real joy comes from seeing the outside exhibits. There's a scale train set-up that reminded us of our father's failed attempt to build one. (He dreamed big, but bit off more than he could chew and couldn't ask for help.)
Shown above is a boring machine from the very early twentieth century. It was used to thump a hole into the ground to make a water well. Revolutionary!
We wandered around enjoying the snapshot of history. It wasn't an easy life. But, boy, did they have a wonderful backdrop! Click for a larger image.
Unfortunately, I had to leave Mike and Phoenix. We both parted company after getting breakfast at McDonald's. Mike's Jeep is quite a formidable machine, especially when in a drivethru!
I stopped in Winslow, Arizona. I tried standin' on the corner but no girl with a flatbed Ford stopped. Instead, I visited this clever tribute! Yes, the mural is painted on a wall and not a building. See here.
Across from the Post Office is a neat mural commemorating the history of Winslow. Cool!
I walked back to the car and saw the "World's Smallest Church". It's dedicated to "our military veterans". It is smaller than the other world's smallest church in Georgia!
Leaving Winslow wasn't easy. It's a neat little desert town. But, I had to be back home for a job interview.
I stopped at the Continental Divide. With the horses--err, Mazda--pointed east, I made my way home.
In Albuquerque, I visited The National Museum of Nuclear Science & History.
This museum teaches the history and science of the American nuclear program. When I visited, it had a traveling exhibit of disassembled machines. This is a digital SLR camera.
This exhibit reminded me of James May The Reassembler. This is a Suffolk push lawn mower from the '70s
Here's a reproduction and exhibit for Fat Man.
Above is the actual '42 Plymouth that delivered the plutonium core for the Gadget, the nuclear device tested at the Trinity site in July 1945! Click for a shot of the box that contained the core!
Before the Gadget was hoisted up a 100-foot tower, this is what it looked like. The exhibit features an exact reproduction.
I believe these nuclear bombs are the ones accidentally dropped on American soil during the early '50s!
Outside is where it got very interesting! This MiG 21 looks like it was part of the Soviet Air Force.
It's flanked by a more modern F-16.
Nike-Hercules were early nuclear-equipped missiles.
Here's a reproduction of the Trinity Tower for the Gadget. Click for a view from underneath!
Before missiles became reliable for delivering nuclear weapons, artillery was used. Yes, I'm not making this up! Click for the description of the Atomic Cannon!
The Mk53 thermonuclear weapon was a common nuclear weapon in the military stockpile from 1962 until '87. It was carried by the B-36 and B-52.
The Mk17 was the largest nuclear weapon deployed by the U.S. It could only be carried by a B-36 or B-52. It weights 41,400 pounds! It was ready for use from 1953 until 1957.
Speaking of which, here's a B-52! I spoke with the guy in the hat. Ben's a 90-year-old who worked at Sandia and Kirtland AFB. We spoke about the exhibits before moving on to sensors--my field of work--and then on to politics. He's an interesting man, and probably one of the few remaining of the Silent Generation, or better labeled: the Greatest Generation. We spoke for more than an hour!
The sail of the USS James K. Polk is also on display. It was deployed from 1965 until 1999. It carried Polaris or Poseidon nuclear missiles and was nuclear-powered.
The B-47 Stratojet was a high-altitude, near supersonic airplane capable of carrying nuclear bombs, providing protection for the U.S. from the early '50s until 1965. Afterwards, it was a platform for reconnaissance and development. Notable is its part in the fly-by-wire control system that is a mainstay in military aircraft.
The Titan II Intercontinental Ballisitic Missile was the largest silo-based nuclear missile and commissioned from 1963 until '87. This missile is the next generation of the one that I visited in Georgia.
The Redstone missile was designed to be a mobile rocket for use by troops in the battlefield. It was, however, used on the 5th of May, 1961 for a more successful form of warfare when it pushed Alan Shepard into suborbit!
I left the Interstate in New Mexico and headed towards Fort Sumner. Along the way, Raymond Samora had built a rest stop. Yes, a private rest area. It's dedicated to veterans and firefighters. It's at the junction of 203 & 84.
I continued on to Fort Sumner along a straight road listening to a curious mixture of rock, oldies, country, and soft rock on the radio. The only other choice was NPR.
Just outside the old Fort Sumner museum is a cemetery. William H. Bonney is buried there. Due to his fame, people stole his tombstone several times. When it was finally recovered the final time in 1981, Billy the Kid's tombstone was enclosed in two sets of iron bars! Click for a close-up of his tombstone.
One of Billy's rivals is buried nearby with a wooden tombstone!
A couple of decades before Billy the Kid terrorized the settlers or Fort Sumner, Bosque Redondo was an Army reservation for Apaches. The conditions were not good, and the reservation was evacuated and sold to a private rancher, who encouraged the development of Bonney's Fort Sumner. Today, Fort Sumner has moved south to the railroad.
On the scenic way back to the Interstate, I stopped to admire the Llano Estacado. This vast plain reminds that the West is still very much open range.
I stopped for fuel in Tucumcari. Oops, wrong pump!
Tesla charging points were added to the other island of the disused gas station.
In Texas, there's a tilted water tower that I saw traveling west. This time I stopped to photograph it.
In Groom is the first Phillips 66 filling station in Texas. It was also the first one restored on Route 66. It may be one of the oldest ones, too, having been built in 1929! Click for a larger view.
I continued back east along with a rather nasty storm of freezing fog and rain. I hate to be negative but driving across Oklahoma is so dull and expensive, almost as much as New York State but without any service stations! It's also very flat!
In Ohio, I saw a group of Amish driving a diesel truck. I thought that very strange, but their carriages were in the towed trailer.
I stayed with my generous and kind relatives again! Randy and I saw the Buffalo Auto Show. I don't recall going to one before. I was astonished that the public were getting into show cars and climbing all around inside. The sound of car doors slamming never stopped!
I was surprised how large vehicles are becoming, too. When I need to replace my Mazda, will I be able to find a similarly sized car? Or will I have to buy a convertible Mustang?
My cousin Tim was invited to the Tim Tebow Night to Shine. The prom-like evening was hosted by a local church. They did a fantastic job. Everybody was friendly and kind. The members of the church were the escorts or "buddies" of the guests. Good idea. The young women, acting as escorts, looked amazing. It's impressive what a dress and a ban on cell phones can do! Tim features prominently in a video uploaded to Youtube. Can you pick him out? We are obviously cousins, except he is built more solidly.
I returned home the next day for a job interview. I got the job. Still, I missed my brother and relatives. I had driven 5,400 miles!
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