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Cross Country Trip
(September 2018)
I completed a contract in central Florida. Since the Interstate highway was closed in the Carolinas, I took the long way home.
Immediately north of Florida in St. Mary's at the gates of the Naval Submarine Base Kings Bay is quite a sight to see! A nuclear-missile-equipped submarine is forever surfacing from a grassy field.
What you see is the sail and upper hull of USS George Bancroft SSBN 643. Presumably the rest of the hull is buried in this field? This '60s nuclear submarine was later retrofitted with Trident missiles. The warheads of these missiles had the ability to target multiple sites independently. It was odd to touch the thick, black insulation of the hull of such a machine. Click for larger image.
Also, there's a time capsule buried near the exhibit. Click here to see the plaque.
Just south of the South Carolina border, I turned inland. In Macon, Georgia, I decided to visit the Rose Hill Cemetery. My reason for stopping will become evident later.
I was attracted by the large Confederate flag flying in the back of the graveyard. Located below it was nearly an acre of matching headstones. Soldiers' Square, pictured above, is the resting place for more than eight hundred Confederate soldiers who died in the nearby hospitals, and others brought from other cemeteries. Macon was a major medical center for the Southern armies. It was only second to Richmond by the number of men treated.
I'm a fan of Southern rock. Maybe it's because I'm a ramblin' man? Despite the fact that the Allman Brother Band hailed from Jacksonville, Florida, they hung around this cemetery in central Georgia. People must have thought they loved it so much, because both brothers and Berry Oakley are buried here. Above you can see the headstones for Duane and Berry's graves. They are a bit overgrown, but are clearly read: here and here. Gregg Allman's grave is supposed to be located in the grassy area between Duane's grave (left one) and the fence. There's a smug of grey there, but it was difficult to access, because of the construction.
The next stop was in Griffin, Georgia. This town has a quirky radio station with the designator WKEU. It's unlike anything that I've heard. It touted itself as Doc Holliday Radio. Then, the voice on the radio started calling the funeral homes for a list of obituraries.
This is all very appropriate, since I visited Doc Holliday's "other" grave. The famous character of Tombstone, where the O.K. Corral shootout occurred, is said to be buried not in Colorado, but in Georgia. The story goes that his father collected his body from out west and brought it back to Griffin. Above may be the two men buried side by side. Click for a view of the plaque.
I left Georgia, and its slow-moving roads behind, and entered Tennessee. I enjoyed driving through the Smoky Mountain region. It's similar to the Blue Ridge, but still has its own characteristics. Just seeing changing terrain was so pleasant after spending a year in the flattest state in the Union!
When an area near Knoxville was developed, the company didn't bulldoze this curious cemetery. It marks the spot where Alexander Gavett and others were attacked and killed by Indians in the autumn of 1798. Their deaths, and the destruction of their blockhouse, stopped the aggressive Indians from attacking and sacking the town of Knoxville. I wish I had more information about this pivotal even in early Tennessee history. Click here for a shot of the inscription on the stone in the foreground.
I couldn't drive past Knoxville without paying my respects to Rachmaninoff's final concert in February of 1943. The city agreed and has erected a statue to the great Romantic composer. This detailed statue is located in a quiet, green corner in the World's Fair Park. Click here for the inscription on the side of this pleasant dedication. He died at age 70.
I'm no fan of cities; however, I think I may make exception for Knoxville. I drove all over the hills trying to find the Park and found it to be a decent city. The World's Fair Park is a nice place to be, too. You can see what it looks like today. The Sunsphere is the obvious icon from the 1982 World's Fair.
Next stop is--you guessed it--a cemetery. They do offer the ideal roadside attraction for me: no charge and history. At this cemetery I could pay respect to one Kiffin Yates Rockwell. This young man offered his services to France during the First World War. Yes, the United States wasn't directly involved in the war yet. Maybe he just wanted to be a war hero like his grandfathers? Well, you got it Lt. Rockwell!
He is the first American aviator to win a dogfight. He went on to survive more than one hundred dogfights! He was eventually shot down and is buried in France, since he died over Alsace. But there's a flat stone for him near this unusual tree stump headstone. Click here for a photo of his stone.
This odd tree stump is the headstone for Reverend James Chester Rockwell. Maybe he is Kiffin's grandfather?
The cemetery is named for Emma Jarnagin. I believe the house shown above was hers. Also, it's located in Morristown, Tennessee. This small town is worth visiting. Davy Crocket lived here as a child, and the town is mighty proud of the fact.
In Lexington, Virginia, there's a cemetery named for Stonewall Jackson. The centerpiece--if that is the correct term--is General Jackson. There's a headstone for him in a fenced area.
Actually, he's buried beneath this impressive monument in center of the cemetery. Well, most of him is buried there. Keep reading as we continue to explore Virginia!
In a rough part of Richmond, I just had to stop along the Jefferson Davis Highway to see this proud marker.
Here's a shot of the back of the marker. Notice anything wrong? If not, re-read the marker.
In Woodford, Virginia, the National Park Service has preserved the farm office where Stonewall Jackson died. There's also a monument, which you can view here.
Fredericksburg sports a respectable amount of rush-hour traffic. I witnessed it while driving to the Battle of the Wilderness. Ironic, huh!
In these woods, Vermont lost many men. That's why a monument was erected in their memory. Walking through the forest began to remind me of home. I read the educational plaques and learned that these woods burned and killed many wounded soldiers. What a terrible way to die!
What was the reason for the Battle of the Wilderness? Plank and Brock roads intersect near this stand of trees. The Northern generals knew that capturing and controlling this intersection would allow them to march on Richmond without being cut-off from behind. Even to this day, the junction is busy and important. Was it worth thousands of lives?
The raised ground near the road marks the Federal trench lines.
I was always more impressed by General Longstreet's strategic choices than General Jackson. And, would you know it, he commanded flawlessly in the Battle of the Wilderness and kept the Confederates from losing the battle sooner than they did. Unfortunately, he was badly injured by his own troops while advancing along Orange Plank Road. Stonewall Jackson was, also, wounded by Confederate troops. Unlike Jackson, Longstreet recovered full mobility, except for the use of his right arm.
As a final tribute to Stonewall Jackson, I walked up the drive to Ellwood Manor. This Georgian-style house is part of the National Military Park. The gate was closed when I arrived. Still, the walk was excellent and beautiful! Click for a larger image.
I stayed away from the house, because I thought the place was closed. I hoped to sneak by and see the rest of General Jackson and quietly quit the place without upsetting anyone. I did see two cars coming up the driveway and waved to both drivers. They waved back.
In the family cemetery behind the house, under a small stand of trees, the left arm of Thomas Jackson is buried. It seems a bit strange, but war brings out the oddness in us all. Click here to see the monument to Stonewall Jackson's arm. Finally, we've found the entire man! Click for a larger shot of this cemetery.
My scenic route home amounted to 2,200 miles. People probably laugh at the extra miles, but I enjoyed it!
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